How to Install Hood Scoops
Hood scoops have been around for a long time, both as custom builts and as stock options. But new interest is revving up as stylists use them for everything from actual air intakes to asymmetrically-placed novelties. Here's a fine item that the Brothers "A" of Detroit have come up with and which anyone with a bit of metal working knowledge can duplicate. Especially intruiging are the site screened air intakes. Build one for any car; the Brothers used a Mustang in this how-to which appeared in 1001 Custom Car Ideas.
A necessary prerequisite is the laying out of the proposed scoop on the hood of the car, double-checking to be sure that all measurements are accurate. A cardboard mockup is fashioned so that we can see what the finished product will look like, and so it can be used as templates for the various individual metal pieces.
The template is next marked off on sheet metal and the shape of the hood scoop is cut out with tin snips. Be careful ot not warp the metal as this will cause difficulty later on.
Now the sheet metal is rolled to form a crown. If you cannot do this, take it to a sheet metal shop where the job can be performed quite inexpensively. As long as you're at the sheet metal shop, have the man "break" the sides. This will save you a lot of hard work and also minimize distortion of the metal.
Perforated steel mesh is now made up for the side mounting, cut to fit whatever shape of opening you have designed. "Pop" rivets are used to retain the screen in position. Drill holes the same size as the rivets, push them through, then flatten them with a small dolly and hammer. To form the front and rear section of the blister, the metal is hammered. The actual shape depends upon your own whim and the shape of hood on which the blister will go.
In this instance the front portion of the scoop had to be split. If yours requires this, reweld it after hammering it into shape. Again, this particular scoop must have small filler pieces welded onto the sides to plug the gap between adjoining sheet metal sections.
All the welded seams are carefully ground to get rid of any foreign material which would prevent proper bonding of the tinning compound, needed preparatory to leading. Use steel wool. Heat it, then dip it into the compound and spread it over the sections that need to be leaded. Use a "cold" torch flame.
Body lead, a 30/70 component is applied and paddled over the area. Work it as smoothly as possible, making certain it contains no air bubbles. The lead is smoothed with a vixen file. File until all of the lead shows a shiny surface, indicating that the high spots have been cut down to the level of lows.
After the filing is finished to satisfaction, follow up with #80 production "dry" sandpaper as a final check on the quality of your handiwork with the torch and lead paddle.
A good going-over with metal prep is necessary before prime painting. This removes wax from the lead, grease off your fingers, and other substances which would wreck the paint. "Fog" on the first two coats of primer, then add slightly heavier coats until a solid surface has been built up. Then follow with thorough block sanding. An option are grille-like stripes, or blades. These are formed out of aluminum bar stock and will be mounted on the sides of the scoop.
The identical side pieces are clamped securely together and the necessary holes drilled at the same time. This saves time and assures perfect uniformity. The forward edges of the aluminum stripes are radiused with a small power grinder. The actual shape is up to individual.
We want a smooth final appearance to the blades, so the attaching screws will be the countersunk type. Thus, we have to countersink the attaching screw holes. Short lengths of tubing are cut to act as spacers between the aluminum blades. Studs are welded to the spacers as shown here for attachment to the hood scoop. The blade units are assembled with countersunk bolts, holes drilled through the screen, and the options bolted into place.
The finished product. The scoop can be functional or used merely for appearance. To put it to use, a hole must be cut into the hood directly under the finished blister.
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